How To Install A Metal Door Threshold
Pity the poor wooden threshold. That stomped-on, scuffed-up, taken-for-granted plank bakes in the sun, gets soaked by the rain, and endures the grit from every shoe that tromps in or out of the business firm. Without regular attention—an occasional lick of paint and some caulking—sooner or later that wood'south a goner, and the underlying framework isn't far behind.
It's best to start replacement work early in the 24-hour interval, and so there'southward fourth dimension to set up any problems that come up to light after the quondam threshold is out. A rotten subsill, punky joist ends, or a termite-riddled rim joist tin can stretch this two-60 minutes job into a full twenty-four hour period's labor.
Here's a step-by-step tutorial on how to install a door threshold.
How to Replace a Door Threshold in 9 Steps
Step one: Know the Parts That Brand Up the Outside Door Threshold
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Click ''enlarge this epitome'' to view illustration labels.
Step 2: Prep With Replacement at the Ready
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Measure the length, width, and thickness of the old threshold, and take a replacement with a similar profile on hand. It should exist an inch or two longer than the altitude between the door casing'south outside edges so y'all tin can trim information technology for an exact fit subsequently.
Remove the storm door and whatsoever weatherstripping attached to the threshold.
Tip: Y'all'll spend a lot of time kneeling on the outside of the house. Place rubber mats on the porch, equally Tom did, or invest in a good pair of knee pads.
Footstep 3: Remove the Erstwhile Threshold
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Fit a wood-cutting bract, at least as long as the old threshold is deep, into a reciprocating saw.
Slice across the forest in ii places, nigh 10 inches from each jamb. Hold the bract so its teeth are nearly parallel to the surface, and watch its tip so you don't cutting the floor.
End sawing as presently as you lot experience the bract cut through the threshold. Await until the blade stops moving before lifting information technology out of the kerf.
Step 4: Pry Out Exterior Board & Treat
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Stick a flat bar (aka pry bar) between the threshold and the subsill and pry up the center section. Wiggle the ends away from the jambs, if you lot can, or split them with a hammer and chisel and have them out piece by piece. Employ patience and finesse, not brute force; you lot don't want to damage the ends of the door stops.
Pry off the toekick (the outside board below the threshold), and probe the woods underneath for signs of decay.
Replace any rotten wood you find, and spray it all with a borate solution like Bora-Care to foreclose rot and repel termites.
Footstep five: Install the Rubber Seal
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A layer of flashing on the subsill prevents water from reaching the framing below. Tom uses Vycor Plus, a rubbery, cocky-adhering membrane that he cuts to fit betwixt the jambs and a few inches wider than the subsill. The flashing goes over the subsill, adhesive side downward, with merely plenty overhang in front to cover the pinnacle edge of the toekick.
Afterwards smoothing out the membrane, Tom grabs the edge closest to the inside of the business firm and rolls it over onto itself, forming a small dam confronting water infiltration.
Stride six: Lay Out the Notch for the New Threshold
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The ends of the new threshold have to be notched to fit around both door jambs. This creates a "horn" that extends under the casing. First, measure the width of the right-hand casing, so hook the tape on the threshold'southward back right-mitt corner and transfer that measurement to the threshold's back edge.
Next, measure the width of the jamb and end, hook the tape on the same corner, and transfer the measurement to the end of the stock. Use a foursquare to describe a perpendicular line from each marking until both lines intersect.
Step 7: Cut Out the Notch By Measuring Jamb to Jamb
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Cutting along the layout lines with a jigsaw or circular saw; terminate round-saw cuts with a handsaw.
To mark the cuts for the left-hand notch, measure the width of the opening from jamb to jamb, then hook the record on the cutting-out notch and transfer that measurement to the threshold's dorsum edge.
Mark the width of the jamb and stop on the threshold'due south left end, bring together the marks with a square, and cut out the notch, as shown.
Trim the horns affluent with the edges of the casing. Sand the threshold with 120-dust paper and spray it with borate.
Step 8: Install the Threshold
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Skid the notched threshold into position under the door stops, then nudge it into identify by borer a hammer on a wood block against the threshold'southward border.
Change the block's position so neither end of the threshold gets likewise far ahead of the other.
When it's tight to the subfloor, slide pairs of shims—ones cut from cedar shingles are best—nether the center and both ends of the threshold, only not nether the horns.
Arrange the shims so the thin end of one rests on the fat end of the other. That manner, as you tap on the fatty terminate, the threshold volition lift without tilting.
When the threshold is tight confronting the door stops and casing, snap the shim ends off affluent with the subsill.
Stride 9: Seal with Cream
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Squirt expanding foam sealant nether the threshold to concur it in place and plug whatever air gaps. Immediately put the toekick up under the flashing and tight against the underside of the threshold, and spiral it to the subsill.
Run a bead of sealant between the threshold and each door stop.
Finally, protect the wood with deck paint or several coats of spar varnish.
Tools
Source: https://www.thisoldhouse.com/doors/21016612/how-to-replace-a-threshold
Posted by: grantpeong1995.blogspot.com
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